The
city spreads along the West coast of the gulf toward the Pianura
Campana. The map gives you the possibility to notice the "different
Naples " during 2500 years of history: the primitive Greek nucleus; the
Greek –Roman city; the medieval city; the Swabian and then Aragonese
city; finally the city of the XIX and XX century which extends until
the boundaries of Campi Flegrei. Naples is a city of contrasts, sometimes of paradoxes: medieval quarters
which preserve the ceremonial of the markets of that age, others which
are already different from their boundaries. Some years ago even the
anthropological characters allowed to establish the zone of origin or
the houses of people. An element stands out among the others: the
mildness of the climate.
In
a city with foundations of the seventeenth century b. C. and with
endless city planning continuity, it is difficult to trace the history:
it is necessary to consider the " prehistoric necropolis of
Materdei " ( III millennium B. C.) and the settlement of the IX
century b. C. The oldest sources quote the Greek- Cumanae
Partenope and Neapolis, united to a new city in the V century. B. C.,
Partenope became Palepolis( the old city )which doesn’t have to be
confused with Neapolis (the new city). It is not clear if it was made
up with contiguous nucleus or " quarters " of a unique
nucleus. At the end of the IVcentury B.C. the city became
federate by Rome and from that moment Palepoli and Partenope
disappeared. The role realized during the Roman period allowed to the
city to be not completely " romanized " and to keep the
idiom and part of the Greek customs, which can be notice still today
in Neapolitan language.
Naples was conquered by Odoacre, then by the Goths, by Belisario, by
Totila; it became Byzantine, resisted to the Longobards and it became
a self-governing duchy till the XI century. After the Norman conquest
the city passed under the control of the Swabians of Federico II with
a period of great development. The Swabian were replaced by Angevins
till the advent of Alfonso of Aragon in 1442. Naples became vicereign
with Consalvo de Cordoba the 14 May of 1503 till the entry of Charles
of Borbone ( 10 May 1734 ). The 21 October of 1860 it became part of
the reign of Italy. Its urban aspect is a kind of book; a historical
anthology which is unwrapped page after page, building after
building, and that, for the greatest part, it has been declared by the
UNESCO "Patrimony of humanity".
A
historical-social indicator of the evolution of Naples in the
centuries is the demographic trend: in Greek age the inhabitants were
about 30.000; they didn't exceed 40.000 till the XIII century to reach
60.000 inhabitants in Angevin pariod and the 110.000 at the end of the
Middle Age. In 1547, during the first true census, were recorded
" 212.106 "inhabitants, while in 1630 there were about
300.000 inhabitants. After the Black Death of 1656 people
reduced to 160.000 inhabitants, to go up again to 270.000 with Charles
of Borbone and to 442.000 in 1798. To the census of 1861 there were
447.065 inhabitants, risen to 760.220 after 60 years and to about
900.000 at the end of the Second World War, and 1.061.365 today.
Between the 1700 and the 1800, Naples was one of the most populated
European capitals.
The
old city, followed by the greek city , extended in the area between
the present Via Foria, Costantinopoli, San Sebastiano, Santa Chiara,
Umberto I, Pietro Colletta and Capuano Castle, where you can see the
three “decumani” and “cardini”. The city was widened during
the reign of Ruggiero the Norman (X century), then, in XIII
century the city was again widened during the Angevin age and it
extended its confines until the present Piazza Municipio where there
is the New Castle (Maschio Angioino). During the Aragonese age
the development extends until the East area and to the present Via
Toledo, towards West. The city extended again during the reign of the
Borbons: the city extends and goes over Piazza Charles III, the Villa
Comunale was built; a lot of buildings were built on the hills of
Sant’Elmo, of Capodichino and of Capodimonte.
During this period the first “speedroad”was built: Corso Maria
Teresa d’Austria (today Vittorio Emanuele), protected by special
“rescritti” to save “with an anticipation of more than one
century about the modern city planning” the landscape from new
buildings. Between the end of the reign of the Borbons and the
beginning of the reign of Savoia family, Naples develops in all the
directions: from the ancient Bridge of Maddalena (where is a
plate for the memory of the tax collector’s walls) to Mergellina,
new buildings and new streets widen the “comunale” area, while
from the hills the buildings are spread until Campi Flegrei and the
area of Nola.
The monuments of Naples are a patrimony which dates back VII
century B.C. and that is also more modern: more than 2500 years
are stratified from the subsoil and for subsequent levels, as you can
observe from the archeological area of S. Lorenzo (under the
surface of the street) and from the S. Maria dell’Incoronata’ s
Gothic Church, belonging to the XVI century (under the surface of the
street. The artistic and monumental patrimony of Naples includes
12 museums, 4 big Picture-galleries, the Acquarium, the
Botanical garden, 4 Castels, 5 Gates, 2 Royal Palaces, 6 Parks, 8
Theatres, many fountains and squares, 7 Libraries, a lot of streets
and buildings. Moreover, there are the churches (about 200), the most
of which are important for their architecture, history and
artistic value (sometimes they are buildings obtained by heathen
temples), and the catacombs.
The Ancient Centre is a museum in the open air for the
achaeology (the greek and roman walls, the excavations of S.
Lorenzo and Duomo, the Cardini and the Decumani, the Anticaglia, the
structures of Carminiello ai Mannesi, the Statue of Dio Nilo; but also
buildings in which today people lives and which have some
greek-roman elements make in lateritium, or columnes and decorations).
In the Old Center , divided in two parts by Spaccanapoli, there are
also the most beautiful palaces of the noble families, unique examples
of the Renaissance architecture; the magnificent Cloisters;
numerous medieval structures (such as the indoor Market placed in Via
Tribunali). The Old Center has an attractive importance since here all
the historical ages are stratified and overlapped: the Byzantine,
Gothic, Lombard , Norman, Angevin, Swabian, Spanish, Austrian, French
and Burbon sovereignity. In this place the confectionery tradition of
the nunneries and the monasteries, and the tradition of the
craftmen’s studios of which the most typical and famous is the
production of Christmas cribs located in S. Gregorio Armeno. Visiting
the Old Center is an excitant way for an historical revival that
starts from the archaelogical site to go through 25 centuries
and ends to the present time, among emotions, suggestions, magic ,
unexpected and sudden discoveries.
The artistic vistit to the monuments and to the archaelogical sites
must include Roman Villas and ruines which are placed above all on the
hill called Posillipo. Donn’Anna Palace and the magnificent
baroque Villas, the big caves of the underground (caves made of tuff
of the roman period); the Crypta beapolitana , where Virgilio’s Tomb
is placed; and many urbanistic elements of Pizzofalcone, that
represent the continuity of the ancient greek acropolis. This do not
mean that the monuments, the architecture and the artistic
masterpieces are located only in this area. Piazza Mercato, Via
Medina and Piazza Municipio, Piazza Plebiscito and Santa Lucia,
Pizzofalcone, Mergellina and Posillipo, Vomero, Camaldoli and
Capodimonte must be mentioned and visited.
In
this city the churches, the museums,the centres of culture, the
castles, the wanderful villas, the fountains, the squares, the
magnificent buildings follow one another and are the best of an
artistic survey that rarely can be compared to another one in
the world. Since in Naples there are a lot of beauties, it is
necessary to ask for information in the officies which give you all
touristic information which are located in different places of
the city. Finally, Naples is a great box that extends from the sandy
shore of Cordoglio, at West, to the sandy shore of San Giovanni, at
East, to step over the hills and reach the southern border of the
plain of Campania region: the visitor should discover each street and
each monument.
Visiting
Naples means also and above all “to live the city”, and this can
happen only if you come into contact with its “colour”, that, mind,
is not the decline of the customs, nor the metropolitan decay of its
culture. It is instead the fact that the traditions have been always
alive during the centuries. The art of goldsmith; the crafts of the
lute-makers and of the masters who create masterpieces made of wrought
iron or wooden objects; the genius of the “pastorai”, who mould
objects in clay according the past customs; the masterpieces made by
the potters of Capodimonte are an example. In the napolitan
“colour” the artists are inspired, such as Sammartino, musicians
such as Mozart. These are only some examples , but they are sufficient
to know the bases of Neapolitan culture and handicrafts.
The
greeks and the romans, before the visitors came here during the period
of Grand Tour, discovered the natural beauties of Naples: its sea, its
hills, its mild weather, its wanderful panoramic
landscapes. In the toponyms is kept the memory: Mergellina for Mar
ialinum (unpolluted and clear sea water), Posillipo for Pausis Lypè
(end of the pain), Chiatamone for Platamon (level shore), and
certainly visiting the city always leaves in your mind a sweet memory
of a sunset seen from the the hill of San Martino, of a red sunset
which makes Castel dell’Ovo alive, of the bright light that during
the day creates some silver raysin the sea in Via Caracciolo. Even at
night Naples has a spontaneous beauty, that goes beyond the string of
pearls of the urban light and makes you discover wonderful and
unexpected corners; sudden moments of natural beauty and unexpected
faces of an old and always young beauty.
text of Genny Bruzzano
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